It’s part two of the trend spotting series where we discover new seasons trends and try to inspire you to hang some of those in your closet. This time we’re going to devote a few lines to one of the most iconic and most wearable pieces in a man’s wardrobe – the suit.
Suits have a long history and in spite of its ancient origin very little has changed through time. Fashion of course has always experimented but the classic shape and purpose have remained. Because of its extensive use in the world of stocks, financial reports, conference and court rooms the suit remained untouched by fashion trends to some extent. Only fit, fabric and pattern were allowed to slightly transform the design of this piece. Any other drastic changes were left behind and forgotten as well intended experiments. That’s why the suit remains one of those pieces that light up the desire in almost all menswear designers to be significantly transformed and therefore locked down in history forever.
Alexander McQueen | Brioni | Jil Sander | Kriss Van Assche
Unfortunately we don’t see that happening anytime soon. For the fall winter 2014/15 season we saw very little change in fit and shape, the classic remains classic. The most design that designers applied to their suits was the shape of lapels, going towards vintage styles such as “Gatsby era” double-breasted suits, playing with classic tuxedo shapes and the use of fabric and colors. Later is also the area where designers applied most of their imagination, where the suit finally loses its sharpness and becomes a fashion piece.
Warning: Business inappropriate
You won’t be wearing these pieces to the office or your court hearing but rather to show off your unique sense of style. That extends from colorfully brave to the style of James Bond. What these suits have in common, you ask? Well, they’re all shiny and noticeable. That’s either expressed in a choice of glossy fabric or metallic embellishments. The not-so-obvious choice would be velvet which in contact with light creates a beautiful silky effect.
Marc Jacobs | Tom Ford | Dolce & Gabbana | Hermes | Canali | Emporio Armani
This season’s suit is rich, has a soft but luxurious feel and shines brighter than any other piece in ones wardrobe. The above mentioned shapes are accompanied by baroquesque patterns, metallic prints, velvet upholstery, sequins, jacquard and embossed fabrics. Jacket is in the lead role here. It’s accompanied by tightly fitted pant, usually in same color and fabric. In some cases, like Kriss Van Assche and Issey Miyake, we also spotted a bit wider leg and a shorter length, like the one at Marc Jacobs and Neil Barrett.
Shiny suit is only worn by mature gentleman who rather than Hugh Hefner look up to Nick Wooster. These pieces are to be shown-off with all confidence and without a doubt of being inappropriate. They require a man who can create dressing opportunities.
Saint Laurent | Salvatore Ferragamo | Issey Miyake | Roberto Cavalli
Ready to wear
Heading over to our favorite shopping www’s we quickly realized this trend hasn’t been fully embraced yet. There’s a broad selection of silky suits in black, navy blue and even burgundy, we spotted some velvet and fell in love with all the jacquard pieces but that’s about it. It could be that suit season hasn’t really started yet and most of them are still hanging in the closets, making room for linen blazers and shorts or possibly buyers weren’t really interested in shiny suits. We certainly hope that’snot the case as the runways really showed some awesome pieces, just take a glimpse at Cavalli and Miyake.
Going through virtual racks Etro really caught our eye. Saint Laurent toned it down a little bit and Dolce & Gabbana went with something much more “wearable”. We love Tom Ford (as always) and Paul Smith sure knows how to make an impact. To go with the trend we suggest Toogood unstructured jacket, Noose & Monkey Velvet blazer and Dolce & Gabbana three-piece suit in jacquard. Whether you’ll be brave enough to wear them to your bosses dinner or a fashion party, we leave entirely to you.